Not only is this a great scrable word worth a ton of points. It is a term near and dear to the hearts of all home brewers. Zymurgy is the study of fermentation. So many things can affect fermentation that it truly is a science. Some of the things that affect fermentation that are critical for the homebrewer to understand.....
Temperature: typically warmer temps bring on faster fermentation, but ever yeast strain has a range at which it will reproduce and thrive.
Yeast strain: see above
Alcohol content. Some beers can only ever be a certain percent alcohol because going above this percentage is toxic to the yeast and therefore fermentation stops.
Contamination: If forced to compete with contaminating bacteria the yeast can lose and the outcome is not good (usually), lambics is a type of beer that purposefully introduces a certain bacteria to provide a certain taste. I am a big fan of Frambois - a French lambic.
Light: the darker the better. A closed room in a basement or a closet are your best bets.
If you have any questions, thoughts or stories about fermentation please comment below, let us at the Pearl City Society of Brewer's know about it, below or at pearlcitysobs@yahoo.com.
Showing posts with label home brewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label home brewing. Show all posts
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Beer Geek 101 - The Basic Nomenclature
Mash
Mash is the grains soaking in the water, soaking the sugars out of the grain.
Wort
Sweet Wort = The solution of grain sugars strained from the mash.
Brewed Wort = During and after the boiling. This is when hops are added, they are added at various times in the boil. Some spices and flavorings can be added at any pont in the boil, but typically at or near the end of the boil
Fermenting Wort = After the brewed wort is chilled, the addition of yeast and sometimes priming sugar and or olive oil makes a perfect breeding environment for the yeast. The yeast eat the sugar and replicate and give off ethanol and CO2 as byproducts. This can take a few days to several weeks depending on temperature, type of yeast, etc...
Carbonation
Bottling: Carbonation can be done by the yeast in a bottling system as the fermented wort is siphoned off into bottles then priming sugar added and the bottle capped off. The yeast will make more alcohol and CO2 is a byproduct.
Forced carbonation, although more expensive than bottling saves quite a bit of time and effort. Place your fermented wort in a keg, pressurize with CO2 and you can be drinking your beer in a few days. This takes special equipment but in my estimation will increase your enjoyment of the process.
Beer!
To borrow a few descriptors: the fruit of the labor, the nectar of the gods, proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy!
Home brewing is such a beautifully simple thing, we just assign an entirely new language to it and it can be unnecessarily intimidating. Do not let it intimidate you. As Charlie Papazian (Sorry Charlie if I spelled your last name wrong) would say, "relax have a home brew."
As always any questions or concerns or comments are welcome at pearlcitysobs@yahoo.com, or by commenting below.
Mash is the grains soaking in the water, soaking the sugars out of the grain.
Wort
Sweet Wort = The solution of grain sugars strained from the mash.
Brewed Wort = During and after the boiling. This is when hops are added, they are added at various times in the boil. Some spices and flavorings can be added at any pont in the boil, but typically at or near the end of the boil
Fermenting Wort = After the brewed wort is chilled, the addition of yeast and sometimes priming sugar and or olive oil makes a perfect breeding environment for the yeast. The yeast eat the sugar and replicate and give off ethanol and CO2 as byproducts. This can take a few days to several weeks depending on temperature, type of yeast, etc...
Carbonation
Bottling: Carbonation can be done by the yeast in a bottling system as the fermented wort is siphoned off into bottles then priming sugar added and the bottle capped off. The yeast will make more alcohol and CO2 is a byproduct.
Forced carbonation, although more expensive than bottling saves quite a bit of time and effort. Place your fermented wort in a keg, pressurize with CO2 and you can be drinking your beer in a few days. This takes special equipment but in my estimation will increase your enjoyment of the process.
Beer!
To borrow a few descriptors: the fruit of the labor, the nectar of the gods, proof that god loves us and wants us to be happy!
Home brewing is such a beautifully simple thing, we just assign an entirely new language to it and it can be unnecessarily intimidating. Do not let it intimidate you. As Charlie Papazian (Sorry Charlie if I spelled your last name wrong) would say, "relax have a home brew."
As always any questions or concerns or comments are welcome at pearlcitysobs@yahoo.com, or by commenting below.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Beer Geek 101 - Degrees Lovibond, Measuring the Color of Beer
"Degrees Lovibond" or "°L" scale is a measure of the colour of a substance, usually beer, whiskey, or sugar solutions. The Standard Reference Method (SRM) and EBC method have largely replaced it, with the SRM giving results approximately equal to the °L. The determination of the degrees lovibond takes place by comparing the color of the substance to a series of amber to brown glass slides, usually by a colorimeter. The scale was devised by Joseph Williams Lovibond.[1]
The Standard Reference Method or SRM [2] is a system modern brewers use to measure colour intensity, roughly darkness (but see Tristimululs Color below), of a beer or wort. The method involves the use of a spectrophotometer or photometer to measure the attenuation of light of a particular wavelength, 430 nanometers, as it passes through a sample contained in a cuvette located in the light path of the instrument.
O.k. so this is not so practical of a scale, I have yet to attend a casual brewers meeting in which this was a hot topic, usually you hear color talked about in a much more general way. But you will see the SRM or L scale at the beginning of some recipes and it is worth knowing what you are going to get yourself into before you start brewing, Any questions or comments on describing the color of your beer, please contact us at Pearl City SOBs, or leave a comment below.
The Standard Reference Method or SRM [2] is a system modern brewers use to measure colour intensity, roughly darkness (but see Tristimululs Color below), of a beer or wort. The method involves the use of a spectrophotometer or photometer to measure the attenuation of light of a particular wavelength, 430 nanometers, as it passes through a sample contained in a cuvette located in the light path of the instrument.
- Colour based on Standard Reference Method (SRM)
| SRM/Lovibond | Example | Beer color | EBC |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 | Pale lager | 4 | |
| 3 | German Pilsener | 6 | |
| 4 | Pilsner Urquell | 8 | |
| 6 | 12 | ||
| 8 | Weissbier | 16 | |
| 10 | Bass pale ale | 20 | |
| 13 | 26 | ||
| 17 | Dark lager | 33 | |
| 20 | 39 | ||
| 24 | 47 | ||
| 29 | Porter | 57 | |
| 35 | Stout | 69 | |
| 40 | 79 | ||
| 70 | Imperial stout | 138 |
O.k. so this is not so practical of a scale, I have yet to attend a casual brewers meeting in which this was a hot topic, usually you hear color talked about in a much more general way. But you will see the SRM or L scale at the beginning of some recipes and it is worth knowing what you are going to get yourself into before you start brewing, Any questions or comments on describing the color of your beer, please contact us at Pearl City SOBs, or leave a comment below.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Beer Geek 101 - IBUs (measuring the Bitterness of Beer)
Thanks to some cutting, copying and editing from Wikpedia we can begin our Journey into the language of home brewing. Today I would like to start with the IBU - a subject near and dear to my heart as the number gets higher with the more hops you use and I love hops!
The International Bittering Units scale, or simply IBU scale, provides a measure of the bitterness of beer, which is provided by the hops used during brewing. Bittering units are measured through the use of a spectrophotometer and solvent extraction. [11]
The bittering effect is less noticeable in beers with a high quantity of malt, so a higher IBU is needed in heavier beers to balance the flavor. For example, an Imperial Stout may have an IBU of 50, but will taste less bitter than an English Bitter with an IBU of 30, because the latter beer uses much less malt than the former. The technical limit for IBU's is around 100; some have tried to surpass this number, but there is no real gauge after 100 IBUs when it comes to taste threshold. Light lagers without much bitterness will generally have 5 IBUs, while an India Pale Ale may have 100 IBUs or more.
This is the beginning of a series of posts to discuss the terms home brewers know and use, if you have any comments or questions, or any specific terms you wanted summarized please let me know by commenting below.
The International Bittering Units scale, or simply IBU scale, provides a measure of the bitterness of beer, which is provided by the hops used during brewing. Bittering units are measured through the use of a spectrophotometer and solvent extraction. [11]
The bittering effect is less noticeable in beers with a high quantity of malt, so a higher IBU is needed in heavier beers to balance the flavor. For example, an Imperial Stout may have an IBU of 50, but will taste less bitter than an English Bitter with an IBU of 30, because the latter beer uses much less malt than the former. The technical limit for IBU's is around 100; some have tried to surpass this number, but there is no real gauge after 100 IBUs when it comes to taste threshold. Light lagers without much bitterness will generally have 5 IBUs, while an India Pale Ale may have 100 IBUs or more.
This is the beginning of a series of posts to discuss the terms home brewers know and use, if you have any comments or questions, or any specific terms you wanted summarized please let me know by commenting below.
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